Today we will have an early start to catch the 6:30 am train to Sarajevo. The train ride between Mostar and Sarajevo offers a captivating journey through the heart of Bosnia and Herzegovina. On this approximately two-hour trip, you will be treated to stunning vistas of majestic mountains, serene valleys, and the winding Neretva River, including a scenic stretch along the Neretva Canyon about halfway through the 120 km. route. The dramatic Dinaric Alps provide a breathtaking backdrop. Both The Guardian and The Telegraph have listed it among Europe’s best railway journeys!

            Sarajevo Train Station is a notable Yugoslav-era building, designed in a clean and functional modernist style. It serves as a key rail hub, connecting the capital with cities like Mostar and the scenic routes of the Dinaric Alps.

            Originally built to serve as an Evangelical Church, the building has a rich and layered history. Once Bosnia and Herzegovina came under Austro-Hungarian rule in 1878, the number of Evangelicals in Sarajevo grew significantly, creating a need for the community’s first place of worship. The main initiator of its construction was an Austrian, Filip Balif, while the design was entrusted to one of Sarajevo’s most renowned architects, the Czech-born Karlo Paržik. The church officially opened its doors on November 19, 1899.
            After the end of the First World War, many Evangelicals left Sarajevo together with the Austro-Hungarian Army, and the church gradually lost its original purpose. In the late 1970s, Vlado Nagel, one of Sarajevo’s last remaining Evangelical Christians, transferred ownership of the church to the city authorities. The building was subsequently renovated and adapted in 1981, becoming the new home of the Academy of Fine Arts.

            It is believed that during the Middle Ages there existed a small settlement and trading area called Stara Varoš, which served as the precursor to today’s Baščaršija. Around 1460, Isa Bey Ishaković laid the foundations of Sarajevo, and the modest trading centre on the right bank of the Miljacka River gradually grew into a bustling bazaar. In Turkish, the name "Baščaršija" originally referred to the principal trading square-today’s Baščaršija Square. Over time, the term came to denote the entire Old Town of Sarajevo.

            Isa Bey first built an inn and several shops here, but it was between 1521 and 1541 that Sarajevo’s greatest benefactor, Gazi Husrev Bey, transformed the area. He established numerous key institutions, including Bey’s Mosque, a madresa (religious educational institution), library, tekke, public bath, covered bazaar, Tašlihan (inn), public kitchen, and more than 200 shops. With these developments, various crafts flourished. By the late 16th and early 17th centuries, Baščaršija hosted 46 specialized bazaars, each named after the trade practiced within it-some of which survive today as street names.

            During its golden age, Baščaršija was not only the economic heart of Sarajevo but also one of the largest trade centres in the Balkans, boasting around 12,000 shops and even hosting trading colonies from Florence, Venice, and Dubrovnik. This golden era came to an abrupt end when Habsburg prince Eugene of Savoy burned much of Sarajevo during his campaign. Although the Baščaršija was rebuilt, it suffered again in the great fire of 1857. This event marked the establishment of the present-day boundary between a reduced Baščaršija and Ferhadija Street-the symbolic meeting point of East and West.

            There were once hundreds of sebiljs-kiosk-shaped public fountains-throughout Sarajevo, but today only one remains, located on Baščaršija Square, where it stands as one of the city’s defining symbols. The origins of these fountains trace back to the Arabian Peninsula, and the tradition of building sebiljs was brought to Bosnia and Herzegovina during the Ottoman era. Sebiljdžije, workers paid by the state or a vakuf (endowment), staffed the kiosks and offered free drinking water to thirsty passersby. The Baščaršija Sebilj dates from the Austro-Hungarian period. Its predecessor, commissioned by Mehmed Pasha Kukavica, stood a few meters from the current location but was demolished after being damaged in a fire. The present Sebilj, designed by architect Alexander Wittek in the Pseudo-Moorish style, was installed in 1913 and has remained an iconic landmark ever since.

            As Ottoman influence waned and Austro-Hungarian authority strengthened, the influx of cheap industrial goods created difficult conditions for local artisans. The toughest period, however, came after WWII, when some communist officials even proposed demolishing the entire Baščaršija. Thankfully, this plan was abandoned, and renovations carried out before the 1984 Winter Olympics revitalized the area. Despite the passage of time, traditional crafts have not disappeared. Today, artisan-made goods are among Sarajevo’s most sought-after souvenirs and Baščaršija remains equally famous for its culinary traditions.

            Home to the Old Orthodox Church, Gazi Husrev Bey’s Mosque, Madresa (religious educational institution), and Library; the Sahat Kula (Clock Tower), Old Jewish Temple, Brusa Bezistan (a type of covered market), Gazi Husrev Bey’s Bezistan, Vijećnica (City Hall), and many other landmarks, Baščaršija is far more than a national monument. It is the cultural and historical heart of Sarajevo and an essential destination for both locals and visitors to Bosnia and Herzegovina’s capital.

            The inn was built in the heart of Baščaršija between the 16th and 17th centuries as part of the vakuf (endowment) established by Gazi Husrev Bey (the city’s greatest benefactor). Its spacious sleeping quarters could accommodate a full caravan of about 300 travellers and 70 horses. The handžija’s room-the quarters of the innkeeper-was located directly above the main entrance. The ground floor served as a stable and storage area for goods, while the upper level housed rooms for musafirs (travellers) and a large coffeehouse.
            The complex also became a popular gathering place for Sarajevo’s elite, merchants, and artisans. The coffeehouse of Morića Han grew so influential that it is even referenced in traditional sevdalinka songs(a form of traditional urban singing). Inns were typically named after their keepers, and this han took its name from Mustafa Aga Morić, son of Ibrahim Aga and one of the well-known Morić brothers. Today, Morića Han is home to several cafés, shops, and a restaurant serving traditional Bosnian cuisine.

            The summer garden of Sarajevo’s Hotel Europe stands atop the remains of Tašlihan, a stone caravanserai built between 1540 and 1543 by the Ottoman governor, Gazi Husrev Bey. Tašlihan was one of three major caravanserais in Sarajevo, serving both travellers and their horses. These complexes were large, fortress-like structures capable of accommodating an entire caravan, complete with merchants, goods, and pack animals. Tašlihan was the largest and most distinguished inn of its kind in the region. Skilled master craftsmen from Dubrovnik participated in its construction, as they did in the building of Gazi Husrev Bey’s Bezistan, which stood directly beside it. Throughout its history, Tašlihan suffered several fires, and the final blaze in 1879 completely destroyed the structure. Most of the remaining ruins were cleared in 1912, with only the portions of wall adjoining the Bezistan left intact.

            Sarajevo City Hall (Vijećnica) is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks, built in 1896 during the Austro-Hungarian period in a striking pseudo-Moorish style. Designed to showcase the empire’s presence, it originally served as the seat of the city government. In 1949, it became the National and University Library of Bosnia and Herzegovina. During the siege of Sarajevo in 1992, the building was heavily shelled and burned, resulting in the loss of nearly two million books and manuscripts. After an extensive restoration lasting more than two decades, it reopened in 2014. Today, Sarajevo City Hall stands as both a cultural monument and a symbol of resilience, hosting exhibitions, concerts, and official events.

            Its architecture blends Moorish Revival elements with Austro-Hungarian design, featuring ornate arches, colourful geometric patterns, and a grand central atrium filled with natural light. The façade’s rich ornamentation and symmetry give it a uniquely eastern character, making it one of the most visually distinctive buildings in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

            The assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand in Sarajevo on 28 June 1914 stands as one of the most consequential events in modern history, remembered not only for its dramatic circumstances but for the chain reaction it ignited across Europe. At the time, Bosnia and Herzegovina was under Austro-Hungarian administration, and tensions in the region were high. Many South Slavs sought independence or unification with Serbia, and nationalist sentiments simmered beneath the imperial surface.
            Franz Ferdinand, heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne, arrived in Sarajevo with his wife, Sophie, Duchess of Hohenberg, to observe military exercises and pay an official visit. The date of the visit carried symbolic weight. It coincided with Vidovdan, an important Serbian national holiday associated with themes of resistance and identity. For a radical nationalist group known as the Young Bosnia movement, supported by elements within the Serbian Black Hand organization, the Archduke’s visit was perceived as a provocation and an opportunity.

            On the morning of 28 June 1914, a group of conspirators positioned themselves along the Appel Quay (a riverside promenade), the planned route of the Archduke’s motorcade. One of them, Nedeljko Čabrinović, threw a bomb at the open car carrying Franz Ferdinand and Sophie. The device bounced off the folded convertible roof and exploded under a following vehicle, injuring several officers and bystanders. The Archduke insisted on visiting the wounded at the hospital before continuing the program, despite the clear threat.
            A critical error in communication then set the stage for tragedy. The revised route to the hospital was not properly relayed to all drivers. As Franz Ferdinand’s car turned onto Franz Josef Street, the driver realized the mistake and stopped to reverse. At that moment, by sheer coincidence, another conspirator, Gavrilo Princip, happened to be standing nearby after abandoning hope that the opportunity had passed. Seeing the Archduke’s car halted only a few feet away, Princip stepped forward, raised his pistol, and fired two shots.
            Both bullets struck their targets: Sophie was hit in the abdomen, and Franz Ferdinand in the neck. Though attendants rushed to help, both died within minutes. Franz Ferdinand’s reported last words to his wife-"Sophie, Sophie, don’t die. Stay alive for our children"-became an enduring part of the event’s tragic memory.

            The assassination sent shockwaves through Europe. Austria-Hungary, convinced that Serbia was complicit, issued an ultimatum that led to declarations of war. The alliances binding Europe’s great powers transformed the local crisis into a global catastrophe. Within weeks, the First World War had begun, ultimately reshaping political borders, empires, and societies.
            The assassination in Sarajevo thus became far more than a local act of violence. It became the spark that ignited a world conflict, symbolizing both the volatility of nationalist movements and the fragility of peace in a deeply interconnected international system.

            We’ll enjoy a traditional Sarajevo lunch featuring a variety of freshly baked pitas, each prepared in the classic Bosnian way. From meat-filled burek to cheese, spinach, or potato pies, it’s a perfect opportunity to taste the city’s most beloved specialties.

            Gazi Husrev Bey’s Medresa, now serving as a museum, is the oldest educational institution of its kind in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Founded in 1537 as a vakuf (endowment) by the Ottoman governor Gazi Husrev Bey.

            Gazi Husrev Bey’s Mosque, commonly known as Bey’s Mosque, was built in the heart of Baščaršija in 1530. It was designed by Adžem Esir Ali, a Persian architect from Tabriz who served as the chief architect of the Ottoman Empire at the time.

            A šadrvan is a type of fountain commonly found in the courtyards of mosques and other public buildings. It provides water for drinking and ritual ablutions, while also serving as an elegant architectural and decorative feature.

            On the way back from Sarajevo to Mostar (we will return in an 8-seater vehicle), we will drive by Jablanicko Lake. Nestled in the scenic Neretva Valley, the lake is surrounded by lush green hills and rugged mountains. Its emerald-green waters reflect the dramatic landscape, creating a serene and picturesque setting.

            The "Bridge on the Neretva" is a memorial bridge over the Neretva River in Jablanica, dedicated to the famous World War II battle fought between Yugoslav Partisans and Axis forces during the 4th Enemy Offensive (known to the Axis as Operation Weiss) in February–March 1943. The battle is also referred to as the "Battle for the Wounded on the Neretva" and is considered one of the most significant confrontations of World War II in Yugoslavia.
            The offensive began on 20 January 1943 and continued until mid-to-late March. In response, the Partisan Supreme Command enacted plans to move toward eastern Herzegovina. To execute this, Tito formed the Main Operational Group, which ultimately forced its way across the Neretva in mid-March after a series of intense engagements with various enemy formations. Meanwhile, other Partisan units, including the 1st Croatian and 1st Bosnian Corps, managed to evade Axis attacks and, despite significant losses, reclaimed much of the territory they had held before the offensive.
            Following Tito’s orders, the Partisans destroyed all bridges behind them. When the Axis forces expected the Partisans to move north, Tito made a daring and unexpected decision: he ordered the destruction of the railway bridge in Jablanica while a train was crossing it. This bold manoeuvre caught the Axis forces completely off guard, as they had concentrated their troops in the Vrbas River valley, anticipating a northern advance.
            After the bridge was demolished, Partisans constructed a new improvised wooden bridge in just 19 hours. This vital crossing allowed Partisans and the wounded to continue their retreat toward Mount Prenj. Today, a war memorial on Prenj commemorates the Partisans who climbed this beautiful yet treacherous mountain.
            The battle concluded on 31 March 1943, with the Partisans emerging victorious. It is remembered as one of the most difficult and heroic engagements of World War II, a testament to resilience and victory against overwhelming odds.

            During his lifetime, Pablo Picasso also designed film posters. One notable example is the poster for The Battle of Neretva, the most expensive Yugoslav film ever made, directed by Veljko Bulajić. Bulajić met Picasso at the Monte Carlo Film Festival in 1964. When the movie was completed and prepared for worldwide distribution-it was nominated for an Oscar for Best Foreign Film and screened in more than 80 countries-Bulajić commissioned Picasso, through his Paris agent, to create a poster for the Western market, primarily for the UK.
            Picasso was intrigued by the idea of designing a poster for a Yugoslav film and decided to watch the movie first to make his final decision. After viewing the film and learning about Yugoslav history, he chose to base the poster on motifs from his painting The Rape of the Sabine Women, painting them in red to symbolize the anti-fascist struggle for freedom.
            Remarkably, Picasso refused a fee for the poster, requesting only 12 bottles of Yugoslav wine in return. Contemporaries recall that Veljko Bulajić, himself a passionate wine connoisseur, personally selected a collection of 12 bottles from Dalmatia, Serbia, and Macedonia and presented them to Picasso.