Today we will visit the Trsteno Arboretum near Dubrovnik. Nestled along the stunning Adriatic coast of Croatia, this historic estate is a true hidden gem. At the entrance to the village of Trsteno stand two giant plane trees - each more than 500 years old and reaching around 50 meters in height. They are among the largest of their kind in Europe and mark the beginning of the arboretum’s botanical story.

            Inside the grounds, lush avenues of palms, cypress trees, and ancient oaks create natural shade and breath-taking vistas. We will wander through terraces filled with fragrant herbs, agave, and citrus trees - a showcase of Mediterranean biodiversity.

            Trsteno has a good claim to have the oldest arboretum in Europe. It is certainly the only one on the Croatian Adriatic coast. It belongs now to the Croatian Academy of Arts and Sciences, but its history as an arboretum dates back to the 15th century, when it was the summer home of the Gučetić-Gozze family, members of the noble class of citizens of the Dubrovnik Republic.

            Hidden among the lush terraces of Trsteno Arboretum is a remarkable 15th-century aqueduct that still carries fresh spring water to the gardens today. Built by local stonemasons to sustain the estate’s exotic plants, it winds gracefully through the landscape, feeding fountains and pools along the way. The aqueduct is both a feat of Renaissance engineering and a quiet reminder of how ingenuity once brought life to this seaside paradise.

            At the heart of Trsteno Arboretum lies a picturesque pond shaded by centuries-old plane trees. At its centre rises a splendid Baroque fountain, built in 1736, featuring a finely carved statue of Neptune - the Roman god of the sea and all waters - standing proudly with his trident and flanked by two graceful nymphs. Beneath him, colourful fish glide through the broad pool while birds flutter and sing in the surrounding trees, and the constant croaking of frogs adds to the garden’s lively harmony. According to local legend, it is Neptune himself who has long watched over Trsteno’s gardens, protecting this unique natural haven from fire and other disasters.

            Water still flows in from the historic aqueduct, keeping the surface alive with gentle ripples - and the constant croaking of frogs adds to its natural charm. This serene spot remains one of the most atmospheric corners of the gardens, inviting visitors to pause and enjoy its timeless tranquillity.

            After visiting the Trsteno Arboretum, we’ll take a 45-minute drive to the picturesque and charming town of Cavtat, known for its seaside promenade lined with palm trees. From Cavtat, we’ll board a taxi boat to Dubrovnik Old Town Port, and then enjoy a short 10-minute boat ride to Lokrum Island.

            Lokrum is a small, forested island located about 600 metres off the coast of Dubrovnik. It is home to a beautiful botanical garden, a tranquil salt lake, and a Benedictine monastery that dates back to at least 1023. The first written mention of Lokrum appears in 1023, in connection with the founding of the Benedictine abbey and monastery. According to legend, Richard the Lionheart was shipwrecked and cast ashore here in 1192 while returning from the Crusades. He vowed to build a church on the spot where he was saved, but at the request of the people of Dubrovnik, he agreed instead to build it within the city itself.

            It’s lush with greenery and surrounded by the blue-green waters of the Adriatic Sea on all sides. The rocks which are actually placed on the very seaside, had been fairly far from the sea only 10 - 15 thousand years ago. Namely, during the glacial periods, the last of which had then been at its culmination, due to the coupling of a large quantity of water in the vast ice covers, the sea level had been sometimes more than one hundred meters below the actual. At that time, Lokrum was in fact not even an island: it was only a small hill. The final flooding of the earlier land by the sea had taken place approximately 6 - 10 thousand years previously, during the time of the origin of the most ancient civilisations.

            The monastery complex was first mentioned in 1023 as the earliest Benedictine monastery in the territory of the Dubrovnik Republic. The monastery owned the entire island, and the abbey also served as a hospital and hospice until the mid-15th century.

            The Roman Curia granted the mitre to the Lokrum Abbot in 1149, and from then on the abbots of Lokrum, after the archbishop, were regarded as the first prelates of the Dubrovnik Church. The night before the monks departed, they gathered in their hoods, lit their candles, turned them upside down, and with heads bowed, whispering prayers and murmuring hymns, slowly walked around their ancient estate, mourning their loss and saying farewell to their home.

            The legend, of course, adds drama to such a goodbye. According to the story, the dark, hooded line of monks pronounced a curse on any future owners of the island, under the flickering light of their candles. The legend, which became associated with several deaths and misfortunes among later owners, might have faded with time if not for the tragedies that befell the family of the Austrian Emperor and Croatian King, Francis Joseph I, whose relatives once owned Lokrum. The execution of his brother Archduke Maximilian in Mexico, the assassination of his wife Elisabeth at Lake Geneva, and the suicide of his son and heir Rudolf in Mayerling left a deep impression on the public imagination and forever wrapped the island in an air of mystery and dark shadows.

            The ruins of the monastery complex are divided into three parts. The oldest remains are those of the three-nave, triconch Romanesque-Gothic basilica (12th-13th century), along with the east and west monastery wings, a tower, and the remains of a destroyed cloister.

            In the 15th and 16th century, a new monastery in the Gothic-Renaissance style was constructed to the south of the old Romanesque one. The west and north wings of that monastery collapsed during the devastating earthquake of 1667, and only two wings with the cloister were preserved.

            Archduke Maximilian of Habsburg, the younger brother of Emperor Francis Joseph I, became connected to Lokrum Island in the mid-19th century. He first visited the island in 1859 and was immediately captivated by its natural beauty and peaceful atmosphere. Inspired by Mediterranean landscapes, he decided to transform Lokrum into a private summer retreat. Maximilian ordered the restoration of the old monastery buildings and the construction of a small residential palace. He also oversaw the creation of botanical gardens, introducing many exotic plants and trees from his travels. Under his care, the island took on the romantic character and landscaped look it still has today. Maximilian enjoyed the island as a place of calm, far from the responsibilities of the imperial court. However, his life took a dramatic turn when he accepted the crown of Mexico in 1864. After political turmoil, he was captured and executed in 1867. His tragic death later became part of the broader legend surrounding Lokrum, reinforcing the belief in the monks’ ancient curse on the island’s owners.

            A cloister garden is a carefully designed garden space within a monastery complex. In the cloister of the Benedictine monastery, ornamental plants for the altars were grown. The cloister also served as a quiet space for relaxation and the fulfilment of spiritual needs.

            Peacocks roam freely on Lokrum Island, adding a colourful and lively presence to the landscape. They were originally brought here from the gardens of Dubrovnik and have since become part of the island’s character. Their bright feathers are often seen along the paths, and their calls can be heard throughout the island.

            A small saltwater lake, known as the "Dead Sea," is located on the Island of Lokrum. It was formed over centuries by erosion, storms, and the island’s rocky shoreline, where waves surge through a deep cave and reach the lake via underground channels. The result is calm, sheltered water that is gentle for swimming, surrounded by rocks and pine trees, creating a quiet and scenic place to relax.

            On our return from Lokrum to Cavtat, we will first stop at Dubrovnik Old Town Port to change boats. If time allows, we can take a short stroll through the Old Town or watch the Alpine and Common Swifts as they screech and glide through the narrow streets.

            After visiting Lokrum Island, we will return to Cavtat by taxi boat. Cavtat is a small coastal town with a peaceful harbor, a palm-lined promenade, and lovely views across the bay. The atmosphere is relaxed, perfect for an evening walk and a seaside dinner.